Issue link: https://read.dmtmag.com/i/705606
w w w. v w m m e d i a . c o m J u l y - A u g 2 016 | V I N E YA R D & W I N E RY M A N A G E M E N T 3 7 ing with nearby Walker Vineyards to plant another five for him, bringing the eventual total to 25 acres. Over the decades he's been in the business, he's also experiment- ed with other Italian varieties. "We did have Nebbiolo, but I wasn't happy with the wine produced — or perhaps I was just unfamiliar with its style — and have grafted it over to Aglianico, which we're really happy with, both as a varietal and for blend- ing with our other Italian varieties." He also grows Refosco, Sangiovese, Negro Amaro and Primitivo. "Aglianico has a crisp acidity, low pH, moderate color and good sugar-to-acid ratio. Even at higher sugars (>26 °Brix), the pH can be in the 3.2 to 3.4 range. It has unique, almost indescribable flavors. Refos- co, on the other hand, has low sugars (22 to 23 °Brix) at harvest, but also low acid and higher pH. Its redeeming characteristic, how- ever, is its high color and softness. It makes a great blending wine to counterbalance the high acidity of Aglianico or Barbera and to add an intensity of color." Other El Dorado County wine- growers focused on Italian varietals include Mastrorerio, Miraflores, Nello Olivo and Palissandro, the lat- ter a little oasis of Tuscany in Fair Play, growing Corvina, Montepulci- ano, Nebbiolo and Pinot Grigio. Paul Bush of Madroña Vine- yards and Winery farms 85 acres of organically grown vineyards with 29 different varieties, includ- ing four acres of Barbera, one of Moscato Gaillo and two of Neb- biolo. He can't grow enough Neb- biolo to meet demand, although he finds it a "nightmare to grow and make: the canes are like 15 to 20 feet long! It's like a weed." He feels Barbera, with its abundant acid and low tannins, is the ultimate food wine. "It's like the red version of Riesling, extremely versatile. You can embrace its acidity and pick between 23 and 24 °Brix, or go for the plush, ripe style," he says. LOVING LIVERMORE'S CLIMATE Some mighty fine Barbera and Primitivo are coming out of Liver- more, with wineries like Rubino being dedicated entirely to Italian varieties. It just grafted 10 acres of Sauvignon Blanc over to Barbera and Sangiovese, adding to plant- ings of Nebbiolo and Trebbiano. Winemaker Jesse Plautz is debut- ing his first Nebbiolo this year, on the heels of a Double Gold for the Rubino Barbera in the 2016 San Francisco Chronicle wine competi- tion. Says Plautz, "Barbera almost makes itself here in Livermore." Small producer Rodrigue Moly- neaux, French in name but farm- ing Barbera and Sangiovese, just rolled out its first Nebbiolo, a spot- on rendition, to Gold Medal recog- Everything you need to make your very best. C M Y CM MY CY CMY K RW-WBM-111814.pdf 1 11/18/14 1:41 PM