Issue link: https://read.dmtmag.com/i/705606
3 8 V I N E YA R D & W I N E RY M A N A G E M E N T | J u l y - A u g 2 016 w w w. v w m m e d i a . c o m SONOMA: SEGHESIO KEEPS IT IN THE FAMILIA The Seghesio family has deep roots in Italian varieties, and farms 110 acres of them in Sonoma C o u n t y. T h e y a r e A r n e i s , Ve r- mentino, Barbera, Aglianico and Sangiovese, including the oldest Sangiovese vineyard in the United States, planted by Edoardo Seghe- sio in 1910. nition. Steven Kent Winery, best known for its Cabernets, tried to axe its Italian program, but met with revolt. Its Home Ranch Bar- bera is so spicy and elegant, and its "Let it Rain" Sangiovese such a cherry cheerleader, that other w i n e m a k e r s a r e n o w s e e k i n g the varieties. Relative newcomer (despite its name), Longevity Cel- lars, has shifted from Lodi Barbera to a Livermore source, and Las Positas has found great success with the grape as well. SANTA CRUZ MOUNTAINS John Bargetto's family hails from Piemonte, so it was natural to plant Italian varieties along with Chardon- nay, Pinot Noir and Merlot in the estate vineyard with a view of the Pacific Ocean in the Corralitos, just south of Santa Cruz. "I wanted something other than Barbera," says Bargetto, "So we went with Dolcetto, Nebbiolo and Refosco for our premium La Vita blend. In good years, we bottle the Nebbiolo on its own." (2012 was a very good year.) B a r g e t t o 's w e l l - c u r a t e d a n d beautifully illustrated book, "Vin- tage Bargetto," provides a good history of winemaking in Santa Cruz County, spotlighting the role of Ital- ian grapegrowers. Says Ted Seghesio, "Consumer interest in Italian wines has never been greater, and I'm right with them. From any growing region in Italy, there are examples of wines that are compelling and possess a profound sense of place. In Califor- nia during the 1990s, Sangiovese was going to be the next 'big red,' but just couldn't sway over the marketing machine of Cabernet Sauvignon. For us, however, we've Seghesio Family Vineyards' Home Ranch is where the family first settled and began farming wine grapes in Sonoma County.