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Issue link: https://read.dmtmag.com/i/490399
www.cheersonline.com 16 • April 2015 AGAVE GROWS UP "We sell our share of cocktails, but we also encourage our staff to sell flights," says Rossi. Adelita's flight holder is a miniature coa, the tool used by jimadors to harvest the agave. Tequilas often come with a side of spicy house-made sangrita. Tastes of mezcal are served in copitas, traditional handmade clay cups. Barrio restaurants offer 35 different set flights; eight of which showcase mezcal. Prices range from $12 to $91 for a sampling of extra anejos. Guests can opt for compadres, house- made chasers. Tasting sizes are served in small stemware such as a sherry glass. At Mesa Azul, Lerner creates bespoke flights for customers, highlighting different aspects of tequila and mezcal, including the effects of terroir. Tequilas are served in Riedel glasses designed to show off the liquor; mezcal is offered in veladoras, small votive-candle holders. "We have a number of flights and sell a lot of them," says Marino at Dos Segundos and Caballitos. Guests will often sample three tequilas and then order a shot of their favorite. Tequila is poured in caballitos, a traditional tall shot-glass. "Flights are huge business for us," says Filo. The two Mezcal Cantinas list three price tiers for tequilas and mezcals: the lowest is for a flight tasting size, the mid-price is for a cocktail or a full pour, and the highest is the pitcher price for drinks. Mezcal flights are especially popular, and new additions to the backbar are highlighted that way. BARRELLING IN Mezcal Cantina just purchased an entire barrel of Maestro Dobel tequila. After tasting samples of six different barrel treatments from the producer, the operator selected the best for its clientele. Maestro Dobel bottled the barrel with a label that reads hand-selected for Mezcal Cantina. Why buy a barrel? "It's a great tequila, and this allows us to sell it at a better price, passing the savings along to our guests," explains Filo. "We are always searching for new ideas and events," says Rossi. He and some of his key staff are heading to Mexico, first to Jalisco to check out tequila distilleries and then to Oaxaca to visit a couple of mezcal distilleries. Back home, the next project is to transform a back section of the restaurant, now a bar called El Guapo, into a traditional mezcaleria. "We will be focusing on mezcals and central-Mexico foods," says Rossi. "My goal will be to find a good source for grasshoppers and crickets," he adds. "So if you know anyone selling crickets, let me know." Thomas Henry Strenk is a freelance writer who has traveled extensively in Mexico, tasted tequila right from the still and enjoyed cricket-topped pizza in Oaxaca. LEADING BRANDS OF TEQUILA, 2013-2014 12/13 Brand Supplier 2013 2014 % Chg Jose Cuervo Proximo Spirits 3,030 3,082 1.7% Patron The Patron Spirits Co. 2,075 2,150 3.6% Sauza Beam Suntory 2,041 2,089 2.4% 1800 Proximo Spirits 1,032 1,041 0.9% Juarez Luxco 820 900 9.8% Familia Camarena E & J Gallo Winery 571 725 27.0% Montezuma Tequila Sazerac Co. 555 585 5.4% El Jimador Brown-Forman Corp. 336 379 12.8% House of Cazadores Bacardi USA 250 260 4.2% Don Julio Diageo 270 327 21.1% Total Leading Brands 10,979 11,538 5.1% Others 2,641 2,787 5.5% Total Tequila 13,620 14,325 5.2% A Barrio bartender mixes up a Black Diamond, with Maestro Dobel tequila, Cointreau, fresh-squeezed lemon juice, pomegranate and black sea salt. Source: The Beverage Information Group Handbooks & Directories, www.bevinfostore.com.