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Issue link: https://read.dmtmag.com/i/490399
www.cheersonline.com 21 April 2015 • "I always found [amari] extremely exciting ingredients to work with," Dauermann says. "They are already essentially a cocktail in themselves—a spirit base with sweetener and other ingredients, almost an Old- Fashioned. You add a whole lot by adding a little of amaro; the overall complexity of its contribution to a drink makes it close to gin in that regard." Amari-infl uenced drinks at the Russell House Tavern are served chilled, such as in the Cold War (Bacardi 8 Year rum, Amaro Meletti, Zu Bison Grass vodka, Fernet Branca), or hot, like the Midnight Sun (red wine, Kronan Swedish Punsch liqueur, Booker's bourbon, Amaro Braulio and Mahia fi g spirit). A drink on last fall's menu that used the explosively menthol Branca Menta as base spirit mixed with anisette proved to be a hit with guests. BEYOND ITALY While amari in Italy developed regional favorites based on local traditions and ingredients, some domestic amari—such as Gran Classico from Tempus Fugit Spirits--are starting to emerge. They're joining newly imported brands from Italy and other European countries that are developing wider distribution here. There's even a new brand from a big player: Amaro di Angostura, launched in New York, California and Illinois that's aiming for national release soon. (While most Italian bitters share ingredient details, Angostura is mum on what's in their amaro, except to say that it offers "aromas of cinnamon, dark chocolate and unmistakable Angostura Aromatic Bitters.") Majethis is currently working out a plan for an amaro fl ight menu for 312. The fl ight will include three ½-oz. pours of the bitters organized by impact: entry, middle, and highly intense level. She may even add a fl ight featuring "friends of amari," those European digestif variants now showing up more and more on back bars. Missa Chamness, hospitality manager for The Blue Room restaurant and Belly wine bar, says the two Cambridge, MA, spots have expanded their amaro lists a bit during the past few years by adding brands like Zwack from Hungary and Jelinek Fernet from the Czech Republic. "We currently have 20 different styles on deck, but that is always evolving and changing," she notes. On the Blue Room and Belly menus also offer fl ights and feature them on the post-meal digestif menu. Amari are broken down into three fl avor profi les: herbs + botanicals, fl oral + citrusy, and bitter + dark. "It is defi nitely a growing area, we are excited about them and like to educate our guests that are willing to branch out and try something off beat," Chamness says. The popularity of amari is rather surprising, Mitra notes. "If you'd asked me two years ago about the popularity of Fernet Branca, for instance, I would have said it's all a bit of a novelty and industry trend." But it's showing no signs of letting up: "There are adventurous drinkers out there who are more likely than ever before to take a chance," he says. If nothing else, it's a sign that when even the most assertive and spine-tingling of amari receive a warm welcome, American drinkers are willing to learn how to appreciate not only kale salad, arugula and espresso, but their potable, alcohol-based cousin as well. Jack Robertiello is wine and spirits writer/consultant based in Brooklyn, NY. THAT'S AMARI! COLD IN THE SHADOWS 1 oz. Campari 1 oz. Lime juice ½ oz. Honey syrup (1:1 ratio of honey to water) ½ oz. St. George raspberry liqueur Anderson Valley IPA Combine all ingredients except for the IPA in a shaker. Whip shake (shake just a few times) and add in about 1 ½ oz. of IPA to the tin. Fill a highball glass with crushed ice, strain the drink into the glass and garnish with slices of orange and lime and a straw. Pamela Wiznitzer of Seamstress in New York created this recipe. I'll Have What She's Having 1 ½ parts Caoruun gin ½ parts St. Germain ½ parts Aperol ¾ parts Lemon juice 2 dashes Peychaud's bitters Shake all ingredients and pour into a coup glass. Garnish with a grapefruit twist Ian Hardie of Huckleberry Bar in Brooklyn created this recipe.