Cheers

Cheers - April, 2015

Cheers is dedicated to delivering hospitality professionals the information, insights and data necessary to drive their beverage business by covering trends and innovations in operations, merchandising, service and training.

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www.cheersonline.com 40 Cheers • April 2015 BACK 2 BASICS WHISKEY FOR WHISKEY HATERS By John Fischer Stor m & Shadow 1 ½ oz. Hillrock Estate solera aged bourbon 1 oz. Barbadillo Oloroso sherry ¾ oz. Blackberry syrup (equal parts blackberries and sugar) ½ oz. Demerara sugar syrup (two parts demerara sugar: one part water) ¾ oz. Fresh lemon juice 2 dashes Angostura orange bitters Dash Vieux Pontarlier absinthe Mint leaves (about 8) and blackberries (2-3) for garnish Combine ingredients in a cocktail shaker with lots of ice. Strain into a Collins glass with fresh ice, garnish with mint and berries. WHISKEY SOUR IS A TRULY GREAT COCKTAIL Vodka is still king, but whiskey is on the rise here in America. Even though there's a lot of consumer interest in the category today, some guests are reluctant to move over to brown goods. Most whiskies are an acquired taste, some—like the single-malt Scotches—more than others. The challenge is to help the whiskey-curious to give this great spirit a try. Here are a few ideas for introducing customers to the world of whiskey. REMAIN CALM AND DRINK WHISKEY The calmer fl avors of blended whiskies, especially those from North America, are easier on the neophyte's palate. Canadian blended whisky is relatively neutral—in a good way—and has been the bartender's mixing whisky of choice for decades. In a classic Whiskey Sour, for instance, a Canadian blend will balance well with the lemon and simple syrup, while still making its presence known. Bourbon, because it's made mostly from corn, has a fuller body and some subtle sweetness that also lends itself to cocktails. Or you can simply add a mixer to make a highball. The same goes for Tennessee whiskey. Rye can add spiciness to a whiskey, and is used mostly in certain American whiskies. Canadian whiskies used to be made mostly from rye, hence its nickname. Rye was the fi rst whiskey in Manhattan cocktails, so most bartenders used Canadians. Because of the whiskey craze, there is a newfound inter- est in straight rye whiskeys, which are more distinctive than many of the established Canadian blends. They're great in Manhattans, and in a range of other cocktails as well. Old World whiskies tend to be drier, and not as soft as their American counterparts. Irish whiskey is usually quite lean and light. It was once the lowest-selling spirit category in the U.S., but is growing rapidly in popularity. An increas- ing number of Irish whiskey brands are available, and they are showing up in more cocktails. Many bars, such as The Dead Rabbit in New York, just love the stuff. Lastly, Scotch is too full of character for most whisky innocents. For one thing, the whisky itself is an acquired taste. Its smokiness—even in blended versions—is just too strong a fl avor for beginners. The smoke, which also makes Scotch trickier to use in a cocktail, is a prominent feature—like someone with a real- ly big nose: It might be a lovely nose, but...it's hard to miss. MIXING IT UP To ease some guests into whiskey, a simple and time-hon- ored technique is to mix it with something that will both complement the spirit but also dissipate some of its power. The obvious choices here are cola and ginger ale—both of which have a great affi nity with wood-aged spirits. Bourbon and Coke is a classic gateway cocktail—sweet and just boozy enough to know that you're having a drink. And in the fall, I love a quick Bourbon and Cider with a small squeeze of fresh lemon. Since cocktails most likely came about to hide the off-fl avors of early spirits, they're another great way to make whiskey more palatable for beginners. The afore- mentioned Whiskey Sour is a truly great cocktail. There are some other classics, like the Old Fashioned and Sazerac, that appeal more to experienced whiskey drinkers. The classic Scotch-based cocktail Blood and Sand can also be very tasty. But there's one cocktail I tried recently at The Stockade Tavern in Kingston, NY, that will convert the hardiest of whiskey haters. It's called the Storm & Shadow, and was created by Josh Rosenmeier (recipe below). The original base spirit was a solera-aged bourbon from Hillrock Estate Distillery. You may substitute another rich and slightly sweet bourbon, like Maker's 46, but the Hillrock really sings with the sherry in the cocktail. John Fischer is a professor at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, NY, and a former wine director at several New York restaurants.

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